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| Taoranting (Joyous Pavilion) Park |
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Taoranting Park, situated in the southwest, derives its name from
the Joyous Pavilion that once stood on the grounds of the Temple of
Mercy (Cibeiyuan).
Jiang Zao, a secretary in the Ministry of Works, built the pavilion
in 1695 during the reign of Emperor Kangxi. So it was also known
as Jiang Pavilion. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, a brick kiln
was built in the neighborhood of the Temple of Mercy at what is
now the Kiln Terrace. Jiang served as a director in the kiln and
came to enjoy the grounds to have a pavilion built there. The original
wooden inscription still hangs inside the gate of the Temple of
Mercy. The characters inscribed on it, °Taoran
(Joy), in Jiang' s own calligraphy, are drawn from the
lines of a famous poem by the Tang poet Bai Juyi: °Let
us wait until the chrysanthemums are golden and our home-brewed
wine matured, then with us all shall be intoxication and joy.
The original pavilion, which was built on a hill, stood higher than
the city battlements. For this reason, it was a favorite destination
for Beijing residents on the Double Ninth Festival (9th day if the
9th lunar month), when tradition prescribed that one should "ascend
to a high place."
During the Jin Dynasty the Taoranting Park lay in the suburbs of
the capital. On the southwestern side of the Central Island in the
lake was a small hillock on which stood the ruins of the Temple
of Mercy of the Liao Dynasty. Today Liao and Jin dynasty stone pillars
inscribed with Buddhist scriptures can still be found here.
In the past, scholars from all over China wrote poems and essays
in praise of Taoranting, though in imperial times, the scenery was
not particularly attractive. To the north of the pavilion was a
residential district of single-story dwellings and to the east a
group of desolate tombs. To the south stood the bare city walls
and to the west a stretch of shallow water filled with reeds. Houses
of ordinary citizens were not permitted to stand at an elevation
higher than the emperor' s palace, and apart from the
hillock on the Central Island, all the highest points in the city
were occupied by the imperial family. This was therefore the only
place where the common people could come for a view of the city.
As visitors increased, the original small pavilion was demolished
to make way for a large building, which in turn was augmented by
three buildings still found today inside the Temple of Mercy.
In the past century several famous revolutionaries were closely
associated with the Taoranting Pavilion. At the end of the Qing
Dynasty Kang Youwei, Liang Qichao and Tan Sitong came here to plan
the Reform Movement of 1898. Zhang Taiyan was imprisoned in the
nearby Dragon Spring Temple for his opposition to the usurpation
of state power by Yuan Shikai. In the early years of the Republic
of China, Sun Yat-sen attended political meetings in the pavilion,
and on several occasions Li Dazhao organized secret revolutionary
activities in the most westerly of the three rooms in the northern
courtyard of the Zhunti (Cundi) Hall. On the afternoon of August
6, 1920, five progressive societies from Beijing and Tianjin held
a joint meeting in the pavilion which was attended by Zhou Enlai
and Li Dazhao. The tombs of the revolutionaries Gao Junyu and Shi
Pingmei are on the northern side of the Central Island.
Noted bureaucrats and officials also flocked to Taoranting. The
late Qing official Zhang Zhidong, for example, frequently held political
discussions here. The Baobingshi (Room Embracing Ice), once Zhang'
s villa, has been renovated and is now a hall for cultural activities.
Although Taoranting has a long history and has numerous sites of
historical interest, up until the eve of the founding of the People's
Republic in 1949, it was little more than a breeding ground for
flies and mosquitoes. After dark, the area became a haven for criminals
and the island' s pines were frequently used for suicides
by hanging. In 1952, the People' s Government transformed
the stagnant pond into a lake. In its center, a gourd-shaped island
divides the lake into three sections-West Lake, East Lake and South
Lake. The earth dredged out was heaped up to form seven small hills
on the lake' s perimeter. The hills have been planted
with flowers, trees and shrubs. The two memorial archways that once
towered over East and West Chang' an boulevards, and
the Tower of Painted Clouds (Yunhuilou) and the Sweet-Sounding Pavilion
(Qingyinge), both once stood on the eastern bank of Zhongnanhai
9Central and South Lakes), have also been moved into the park.
Inside the park, facing the northern gate are two identical memorial
archways painted in brilliant colors. A path leads through to the
spit of land which connects with the Central Island.
On the island, a series of steps made of Taihu stones from Jiangsu
Province leads to the top of the Glorious Autumn Mound. On the southern
slope pf the mound is the site of two tombs, the Fragrant Tomb and
Parrot Tomb. The graveyard was originally part of the old Flower
Spirit Temple and these two small tombs still have engraved stele
standing before them. In the past, several different stories have
been attached to the Fragrant Tomb. One relates that after the Manchus
took control of Beijing in 1644, the people were forced to change
their mode of dress. Adherents of the Ming Dynasty, cherishing the
memory of their old rulers, buried their Ming Dynasty garments here
in a gesture of loyalty.
Another story relates how a certain court official of the Qing
submitted numerous memorials to the throne but received no response.
In a fit of frustration, he gathered up all his memorials and other
writings and buried them here. Fearing that his action might arouse
imperial wrath, he covered his tracks by naming the site the Fragrant
Tomb. Still another legend explains that this is the tomb of Concubine
Xiang (Fragrance), a favorite of Emperor Qianlong, and yet another
relates that this the spot where an unsuccessful candidate in the
national imperial examinations buried his brushes, ink and examination
paper in his frustration.
The Parrot Tomb stands a few meters to the west of the Fragrant
Tomb. The writing on the front of the stela before the tomb. The
writing on the front of the stela before the tomb is blurred, but
on the back reads °Parrot Tomb" According to the Notes
from the Ten Thousand Willows Chamber, the Qing calligrapher Deng
Wanbai buried his pet parrot here after it was killed by a cat.
The text on the stele reads, °Here lie brushes and writings,
though under the name of a bird and of fragrant grasses, and it
can be inferred that the Fragrant Tomb and the Parrot Tomb were
the work of a single hand.
To the east of the Glorious Autumn Mound is a small hill formerly
called the Kiln Lump (Yaogeda). When the park was formally opened
after 1949, the hill was heightened and planted with trees, and
a path was built leading to its peak.
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